I chose to study the fashions of item carrying, because it is not a conventional way of looking at human history. I was interested to find out the differences between cultures, gender and eras in terms of bags, pouches, pockets and such.
I was hoping and expecting to learn that numerous social, economical and other phenomena play a significant part in the lifeline of trends. In example, the whole buzz around women’s pockets in the Victorian society (see post: the châtelaine and the reticule) is intriguing, as it shows the effect of social status (especially if it happens to be low, like women’s had been for so long), in terms of what you were allowed to carry with yourself and how.
I am, and from the very beginning was, aware of the lack of possibilities for critical analysis during this essay project, as it was mainly based on historical facts. However, I did some occasional comparing between the past and the present. In addition, I found this process extremely useful for my future, as I am to become a stylist and am interested in working as a costumer, possibly in theatre plays or movies. In this job I would most possibly need the knowledge of textile and fashion history.
I do not regret the topics I had in my posts. If I had had the energy and time, I would have tried to find more information on civilisations further away and longer ago, as most of my posts tell about European culture after Middle Ages. In example, I tried to find out how the people in ancient Egypt carried their everyday items, with findings not enough for a blog post.
I am rather proud of the sources of information I used to support my posts, as I did pay attention to their quality and used a good variety of books, articles, web pages etc.
This is by no means the end of my studies on trend history; I will continue reading articles, books and blogs in my free time. I am also yet to finish my history lessons in Finland. However, I will not keep writing this blog, as I found it surprisingly exhausting, even though I like writing.
Monday, May 7, 2012
Saturday, March 31, 2012
Pockets and (female) privacy: the 18th century compared with today
Ariane Fennetaux (2008) has written an interesting article about pocket evolution in female clothing in the 18th century and the intimacy issues around it. The article is a compact source of information and highly useful for me in this essay project. Taking advantage of the research Fennetaux has done, I will now compare the role of pockets in the 18th century with how it is today. The 21st century facts are based on my own experience, for I could not find written information.
In the 18th century inset pockets were widely used in men’s garments, such as jackets. The female version of the pocket was a tie-on pair of pouches (or a single pouch) worn under one’s skirt. This custom was popular amongst women of all ranks and statuses in the UK from the late 17th century onwards, and it survived into the 19th century after which the sewn-in version became common in female clothing as well.
a typical embroided pocket of the 1700's
Regardless of the ongoing development in female independency at that time, women still lacked privacy even in domestic surroundings. If lucky, a woman might have had a writing desk in which to keep her few private items such as letters and jewellery, but pockets were the best place to keep them out of other people’s reach. Nowadays, anyone can keep things safe in drawers and does not have to carry them about. In addition, in this modern computer society it is possible to secure documents behind passwords. And yet, many items such as mobile phones and wallets are still carried along - by both sexes.
In the 1700’s, people would see symbolic and associated meanings in objects that the modern person finds completely neutral. For example, putting a letter into one’s pocket was at the time a very intimate gesture, which was a way of feeling and showing great affection. Since pockets were so close to the body - on the skin, actually, since underwear was not common - they usually caught the scent of their owner. Furthermore, reaching for a woman’s pocket meant that the hand was to be put under the slits of the skirt and close to her pelvic area. Therefore accessing them was thought very intimate, even when performed by the woman herself. These days, pockets as such are not seen as very intimate. One interesting phenomenon, though, is that sometimes couples can be seen walking in public with one’s hand in another’s back-pocket. This can be seen as interesting evolution in the intimacy aspect of the pocket, comparing to what it was in the 18th century, for this modern custom would most probably have been considered outrageous.
Is not our society just shameless?
The tie-on pockets were usually all hand-made and embroidered by the woman herself. Guiding a young girl in the embroidery of their own pockets was a good way of teaching qualities of a good housewife. By studying a woman’s pockets’ exterior, one could learn quite a lot: the woman’s name from stitched initials, her handicrafts skills, her visual taste and possibly other signals about her character. This type of decoration is not common in the 21st century, and definitely not an educational custom. What one can see today is ornamental stitches on especially pockets of denim wear. This, however, has little to do with the process of creating one’s own pair of pockets in the 1700’s and for the stitching is very rarely unique; it does not really tell much about the person.
Because in the 18th century a woman’s pockets were tied on, they could sometimes drop and get lost. Theft was also practiced, for pockets quite often held valuable items such as money and jewellery. Therefore one could never be sure that their belongings were completely safe, which still has not changed to date. Although nowadays they are bags and wallets that get lost and stolen, not pockets as they are inset. Nicks do reach for pockets as well, though, in pursuit of their contents. But the victims are both men and women, for they carry their belongings in the same fashion.
Bibliography:
a typical embroided pocket of the 1700's. (2011) [Online image]. Available from: < http://rihs.wordpress.com/tag/18th-century/ > [Accessed 31 March 2012].
Fennetaux, A. (2008) Women's Pockets and the Construction of Privacy in the Long Eighteenth Century. Eighteenth Century Fiction, 20 (3) Spring, pp.307-334.
Is not our society just shameless?. (n.d.) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Dk2&sa=N&pwst=1&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=930&tbm=isch&tbnid=ZiyBLj1TLV72DM:&imgrefurl=http://www.123rf.com/photo_11401382_back-shot-of-a-couple-keeping-each-other-s-hand-inside-the-partner-s-back-pocket.html&docid=Uz1vrvBUjYFARM&imgurl=http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/inspirestock/inspirestock1112/inspirestock111200106/11401382-back-shot-of-a-couple-keeping-each-other-s-hand-inside-the-partner-s-back-pocket.jpg&w=1200&h=783&ei=UDd3T4OoNYjY0QXy2diRDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=171&vpy=301&dur=1344&hovh=181&hovw=278&tx=162&ty=111&sig=115043970249455260250&page=1&tbnh=135&tbnw=179&start=0&ndsp=35&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0 > [Accessed 31 March 2012].
In the 18th century inset pockets were widely used in men’s garments, such as jackets. The female version of the pocket was a tie-on pair of pouches (or a single pouch) worn under one’s skirt. This custom was popular amongst women of all ranks and statuses in the UK from the late 17th century onwards, and it survived into the 19th century after which the sewn-in version became common in female clothing as well.
a typical embroided pocket of the 1700'sRegardless of the ongoing development in female independency at that time, women still lacked privacy even in domestic surroundings. If lucky, a woman might have had a writing desk in which to keep her few private items such as letters and jewellery, but pockets were the best place to keep them out of other people’s reach. Nowadays, anyone can keep things safe in drawers and does not have to carry them about. In addition, in this modern computer society it is possible to secure documents behind passwords. And yet, many items such as mobile phones and wallets are still carried along - by both sexes.
In the 1700’s, people would see symbolic and associated meanings in objects that the modern person finds completely neutral. For example, putting a letter into one’s pocket was at the time a very intimate gesture, which was a way of feeling and showing great affection. Since pockets were so close to the body - on the skin, actually, since underwear was not common - they usually caught the scent of their owner. Furthermore, reaching for a woman’s pocket meant that the hand was to be put under the slits of the skirt and close to her pelvic area. Therefore accessing them was thought very intimate, even when performed by the woman herself. These days, pockets as such are not seen as very intimate. One interesting phenomenon, though, is that sometimes couples can be seen walking in public with one’s hand in another’s back-pocket. This can be seen as interesting evolution in the intimacy aspect of the pocket, comparing to what it was in the 18th century, for this modern custom would most probably have been considered outrageous.
Is not our society just shameless?The tie-on pockets were usually all hand-made and embroidered by the woman herself. Guiding a young girl in the embroidery of their own pockets was a good way of teaching qualities of a good housewife. By studying a woman’s pockets’ exterior, one could learn quite a lot: the woman’s name from stitched initials, her handicrafts skills, her visual taste and possibly other signals about her character. This type of decoration is not common in the 21st century, and definitely not an educational custom. What one can see today is ornamental stitches on especially pockets of denim wear. This, however, has little to do with the process of creating one’s own pair of pockets in the 1700’s and for the stitching is very rarely unique; it does not really tell much about the person.
Because in the 18th century a woman’s pockets were tied on, they could sometimes drop and get lost. Theft was also practiced, for pockets quite often held valuable items such as money and jewellery. Therefore one could never be sure that their belongings were completely safe, which still has not changed to date. Although nowadays they are bags and wallets that get lost and stolen, not pockets as they are inset. Nicks do reach for pockets as well, though, in pursuit of their contents. But the victims are both men and women, for they carry their belongings in the same fashion.
Bibliography:
a typical embroided pocket of the 1700's. (2011) [Online image]. Available from: < http://rihs.wordpress.com/tag/18th-century/ > [Accessed 31 March 2012].
Fennetaux, A. (2008) Women's Pockets and the Construction of Privacy in the Long Eighteenth Century. Eighteenth Century Fiction, 20 (3) Spring, pp.307-334.
Is not our society just shameless?. (n.d.) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Dk2&sa=N&pwst=1&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=930&tbm=isch&tbnid=ZiyBLj1TLV72DM:&imgrefurl=http://www.123rf.com/photo_11401382_back-shot-of-a-couple-keeping-each-other-s-hand-inside-the-partner-s-back-pocket.html&docid=Uz1vrvBUjYFARM&imgurl=http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/inspirestock/inspirestock1112/inspirestock111200106/11401382-back-shot-of-a-couple-keeping-each-other-s-hand-inside-the-partner-s-back-pocket.jpg&w=1200&h=783&ei=UDd3T4OoNYjY0QXy2diRDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=171&vpy=301&dur=1344&hovh=181&hovw=278&tx=162&ty=111&sig=115043970249455260250&page=1&tbnh=135&tbnw=179&start=0&ndsp=35&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0 > [Accessed 31 March 2012].
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Quote 2
“Empty pockets never held anyone back. Only empty heads and empty hearts can do that.”
― Norman Vincent Peale
Available from: www.quotegarden.com
I decided to put this quote into the blog, for this is a good way of questioning one significant value of man. Do we rely too much on our possessions, in terms of defining ourselves? Is a person with less money and other goods less valuable as a human being, compared to someone else who has got 'everything'?
This topic has been discussed for centuries, if not millenia. But in my opinion it is still relevant, as the world seems to be more materialistic than ever. We are a visual and possessive species, and we like to compare ourselves through things. As a good example, the neverending arms race between neighbours who try to outdo each other by higher and better trimmed rasberry bushes and shinier cars.
But in the end: what makes a succeeded individual?
― Norman Vincent Peale
Available from: www.quotegarden.com
I decided to put this quote into the blog, for this is a good way of questioning one significant value of man. Do we rely too much on our possessions, in terms of defining ourselves? Is a person with less money and other goods less valuable as a human being, compared to someone else who has got 'everything'?
This topic has been discussed for centuries, if not millenia. But in my opinion it is still relevant, as the world seems to be more materialistic than ever. We are a visual and possessive species, and we like to compare ourselves through things. As a good example, the neverending arms race between neighbours who try to outdo each other by higher and better trimmed rasberry bushes and shinier cars.
But in the end: what makes a succeeded individual?
Monday, March 19, 2012
The netsuke
The kimono is a traditional Japanese garment worn by both men and women. The name kimono was used from the 18th century onwards, although a similar garment had already been worn for thousands of years. (Japan Zone, n.d.) The traditional kimono does not have pockets. So, in the past, the Japanese would carry their personal belongings in other fashions. Today one can see handbags used with the kimono, but at that time women, whose kimonos had wide and long sleeves, could carry lightweight items inside of them. Another custom that started in the 17th century (IvoryAndArt Gallery, 2012) was to tuck items into the obi, a wide, decorative fabric sash, which is wrapped around one’s waist with numerous folds, which lay on one’s front waist. Although, later the big obi bunch moved to the back, as it grew in size. Men’s sleeves and obis were narrower, so they would hang a pouch or a basket from their obis with a cord. The cord was simply pulled up under the obi, and something was needed to prevent it from slipping. In the beginning, small stones or roots were used. (Davis, 1998)
As the time went by, this netsuke, evolved into a highly decoratively hand-carved object, which played an important role in male clothing. Small items, called the sagemono (hanging items), would be hung using the netsuke. (International Netsuke Society, n.d.) These items could be, for example, a brush and ink, small cases, a knife, a ruler and cosmetics/medicine. The samurai (warriors) would also carry a sword. (Davis 1998; Stutler 2010)
how to use netsuke
In the early 17th century, the Japanese tried to lift their country’s economy with tobacco products, so one would see pipes and tinderboxes hanging from the netsuke. As the Western culture arrived in Japan, rolled cigarettes replaced pipes. (Davis, 1998)
With the Western culture also came pockets. This made the netsuke no longer needed, but it kept its worth as a decorative piece and a collectible. The craftsmanship of the netsuke is still alive and strong. Although, nowadays it is sometimes called the okimono (standing in place) as it is only used for display purposes. However, they are made as they were used as the original netsuke, so the usability is still important. (Davis, 1998)
Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de Waal
My comments:
I find the netsuke quite similar to the châtelaine (see post: The châtelaine and the reticule), as they both hold items that are hung from the waist. They were both used in the same era, but the two different cultures were sigificantly far from each other and the interaction between them has not been really active. Nevertheless, I suppose peoples’ ways of seeing the world around them was surprisingly similar.
Bibliography:
Davis, B. (1998) Netsuke [Internet], Jade Dragon Online. Available from: < http://www.jadedragon.com/aug98/netsuke.html > [Accessed 15 March].
how to use netsuke. (2009) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.dianecsmith.com/pages/netsuke.html > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
International Netsuke Society (n.d.) What is a netsuke? [Internet], International Netsuke Society. Available from: < http://www.netsuke.org/Default.aspx?pageId=1125375 > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Japan Zone, (n.d.) Kimono [Internet], Japan Zone. Available from: < http://www.japan-zone.com/culture/kimono.shtml > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de Waal. (2010) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2010/may/29/edmund-waal-hare-amber-netsuke > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Stutler, R., (2010) What is a Yatate? [Internet]. Tokyo Fountain Pen Scene. Available from: < http://www.stutler.cc/pens/yatate/index.html > [Accessed 18 March].
As the time went by, this netsuke, evolved into a highly decoratively hand-carved object, which played an important role in male clothing. Small items, called the sagemono (hanging items), would be hung using the netsuke. (International Netsuke Society, n.d.) These items could be, for example, a brush and ink, small cases, a knife, a ruler and cosmetics/medicine. The samurai (warriors) would also carry a sword. (Davis 1998; Stutler 2010)
how to use netsukeIn the early 17th century, the Japanese tried to lift their country’s economy with tobacco products, so one would see pipes and tinderboxes hanging from the netsuke. As the Western culture arrived in Japan, rolled cigarettes replaced pipes. (Davis, 1998)
With the Western culture also came pockets. This made the netsuke no longer needed, but it kept its worth as a decorative piece and a collectible. The craftsmanship of the netsuke is still alive and strong. Although, nowadays it is sometimes called the okimono (standing in place) as it is only used for display purposes. However, they are made as they were used as the original netsuke, so the usability is still important. (Davis, 1998)
Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de WaalMy comments:
I find the netsuke quite similar to the châtelaine (see post: The châtelaine and the reticule), as they both hold items that are hung from the waist. They were both used in the same era, but the two different cultures were sigificantly far from each other and the interaction between them has not been really active. Nevertheless, I suppose peoples’ ways of seeing the world around them was surprisingly similar.
Bibliography:
Davis, B. (1998) Netsuke [Internet], Jade Dragon Online. Available from: < http://www.jadedragon.com/aug98/netsuke.html > [Accessed 15 March].
how to use netsuke. (2009) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.dianecsmith.com/pages/netsuke.html > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
International Netsuke Society (n.d.) What is a netsuke? [Internet], International Netsuke Society. Available from: < http://www.netsuke.org/Default.aspx?pageId=1125375 > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Japan Zone, (n.d.) Kimono [Internet], Japan Zone. Available from: < http://www.japan-zone.com/culture/kimono.shtml > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de Waal. (2010) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2010/may/29/edmund-waal-hare-amber-netsuke > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Stutler, R., (2010) What is a Yatate? [Internet]. Tokyo Fountain Pen Scene. Available from: < http://www.stutler.cc/pens/yatate/index.html > [Accessed 18 March].
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Quote 1
“Whenever you are examining someone else's belongings, you are bound to learn many interesting things about the person of which you were not previously aware.”
― Lemony Snicket, The Blank Book
Available from: www.goodreads.com
I think everybody can agree with Mr. Snicket in this. Should one had not thought about this, I dare them to take a look at their own bag and, if possible, compare its contents with someone else's. Another option is to take a look at my previous post "Face your pockets!", where people around the world have revealed the contents of their own bags for the whole world to see.
Today in my purse are, in example, a letter to Finland, my calendar, cosmetics, my wallet and passport, a mobile phone charger and a notebook. These are only a few things I am carrying along today, but what could you tell about me just from these items? That I have friends/family abroad and I travel? That I want to make sure I will always have something to write notes on? Or that my mobile phone has an unpredictable battery? Have you already formed a picture of my appearance, gestures in and voice/accent in your head? I am guessing you have.
― Lemony Snicket, The Blank Book
Available from: www.goodreads.com
I think everybody can agree with Mr. Snicket in this. Should one had not thought about this, I dare them to take a look at their own bag and, if possible, compare its contents with someone else's. Another option is to take a look at my previous post "Face your pockets!", where people around the world have revealed the contents of their own bags for the whole world to see.
Today in my purse are, in example, a letter to Finland, my calendar, cosmetics, my wallet and passport, a mobile phone charger and a notebook. These are only a few things I am carrying along today, but what could you tell about me just from these items? That I have friends/family abroad and I travel? That I want to make sure I will always have something to write notes on? Or that my mobile phone has an unpredictable battery? Have you already formed a picture of my appearance, gestures in and voice/accent in your head? I am guessing you have.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
The châtelaine and the reticule
I came across this article written by C. Matthews (2010). It is about pocket issues in the Victorian times. I think it is perfect for my research, and I am now going to cite the article in this post.
According to Matthews, in Europe of the Victorian times (the 19th century) there was great controversy about how women, who were gaining more independence, should carry their personal belongings, such as a handkerchief, a money purse and a watch, with them. Pockets sewn inside garments, which were a standard in male clothing, were considered to cause visually disturbing and unpractical bulges that would spoil the ideal female figure (which at that time was managed with corsets and crinolines).
The châtelaine gained popularity in the 1850’s. It was a metallic belt hook from which desired items could be hung on a chain. These items might have been "numerous small and decorative items such as scissors and pin cushions, keys and note pads, perfume, and often a small purse or bag" (Wilcox 1999, quoted in Matthews 2010) However, the châtelaine caused amusement and irritation amongst people not wearing them. Châtelaines with sharp objects, such as scissors, hanging from them were claimed to be dangerous. In addition, they were made fun of as silly objects to which women would attach pots, pans and even children. They were also thought to slow women down, even in a disabling way, rather than making their lives easier and less dependent.
sporting a châtelaine, illustration from 1896
A decorative handbag, at that time called the reticule, was suggested as the solution to the problem of female item-carrying. Although it had already been in use for decades (Warren, 1987), it was now more discussed than ever. However, Matthews mentions a slight problem: a soft hanging pouch including the woman’s dearest, even intimate, objects was in the Victorian community considered something that sent obvious signals about female sexuality. This, however, was not an issue great enough to stop the reticule, or the handbag, from gaining popularity which still lasts. (Warren, 1987)
a shell-shaped reticule
My comments:
I can personally understand why châtelaines did not become very commonly used afterwards. They must have been a little unpractical, save the fact that they kept both of the users hands free. I was like a woman's toolbelt of that time, although it was made of metal. I can imagine women polishing and oiling them to keep them representative!
For some reason I can see the resemblance to these certain kind of pendants females wear today. Although they are only used as decoration and do not hang from one's waist, the inspiration for them might originally have come from the châtelaine.
a far cousin of the châtelaine?
As for the reticule, well, it is the mother of the handbag we know today. For a modern person it might be amusing to think that the Victorians found it sexually suggestive. But sexuality is so openly expressed these days that such small signals, as the ones the reticule was claimed to send, simply get ignored.
Bibliography
a far cousin of the châtelaine?. (2010) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/513370234/Pendant_Necklace_With_Bird_Cross_Beauty.html > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
a shell-shaped reticule. (n.d.) [Online image]. Available from: < http://kleurrijkjaneausten.blogspot.com/2011/06/reticule-was-small-handbag-that-could.html > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Matthews, C. (2010) Form and Deformity: The Trouble with Victorian Pockets. Victorian Studies, 52 (4) Summer, pp.561-90.
sporting a châtelaine, illustration from 1896. (1896) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&sa=X&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=930&tbm=isch&tbnid=OpUplpyIf2Dx6M:&imgrefurl=http://dressedintime.blogspot.com/2011/10/equipage-or-chatelaine.html&docid=xQnFy2DqcDARGM&imgurl=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmH_tyn4JkAg3StKvpC3COUdha-VRGn5tQKmBss6Rc_WnqhykDjBbsEnDftpj_MTgQO_o3J8uAYFaox8vk1MpphdjLRkRZZW6g3Luj8FEAcw5sq0vRD55XbfBwXi1tQ2q8rg_h3n6CdL2l/s1600/jingling-chatelaine-milford-mail-9-jan-1896.jpg&w=587&h=665&ei=o9dhT4-kDobV8QPGi5m4CA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1028&vpy=110&dur=46&hovh=239&hovw=211&tx=125&ty=115&sig=112135005222127571011&page=2&tbnh=151&tbnw=131&start=38&ndsp=43&ved=1t:429,r:28,s:38 > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Warren, G. (1987) Fashion Accessories Since 1500. Avon, Unwin Hyman Limited.
Wilcox, C. (1999) Bags. London, V&A Publications. Quoted in: Matthews, C. (2010) Form and Deformity: The Trouble with Victorian Pockets. Victorian Studies, 52 (4) Summer, pp.561-90.
According to Matthews, in Europe of the Victorian times (the 19th century) there was great controversy about how women, who were gaining more independence, should carry their personal belongings, such as a handkerchief, a money purse and a watch, with them. Pockets sewn inside garments, which were a standard in male clothing, were considered to cause visually disturbing and unpractical bulges that would spoil the ideal female figure (which at that time was managed with corsets and crinolines).
The châtelaine gained popularity in the 1850’s. It was a metallic belt hook from which desired items could be hung on a chain. These items might have been "numerous small and decorative items such as scissors and pin cushions, keys and note pads, perfume, and often a small purse or bag" (Wilcox 1999, quoted in Matthews 2010) However, the châtelaine caused amusement and irritation amongst people not wearing them. Châtelaines with sharp objects, such as scissors, hanging from them were claimed to be dangerous. In addition, they were made fun of as silly objects to which women would attach pots, pans and even children. They were also thought to slow women down, even in a disabling way, rather than making their lives easier and less dependent.
sporting a châtelaine, illustration from 1896A decorative handbag, at that time called the reticule, was suggested as the solution to the problem of female item-carrying. Although it had already been in use for decades (Warren, 1987), it was now more discussed than ever. However, Matthews mentions a slight problem: a soft hanging pouch including the woman’s dearest, even intimate, objects was in the Victorian community considered something that sent obvious signals about female sexuality. This, however, was not an issue great enough to stop the reticule, or the handbag, from gaining popularity which still lasts. (Warren, 1987)
a shell-shaped reticuleMy comments:
I can personally understand why châtelaines did not become very commonly used afterwards. They must have been a little unpractical, save the fact that they kept both of the users hands free. I was like a woman's toolbelt of that time, although it was made of metal. I can imagine women polishing and oiling them to keep them representative!
For some reason I can see the resemblance to these certain kind of pendants females wear today. Although they are only used as decoration and do not hang from one's waist, the inspiration for them might originally have come from the châtelaine.
a far cousin of the châtelaine?As for the reticule, well, it is the mother of the handbag we know today. For a modern person it might be amusing to think that the Victorians found it sexually suggestive. But sexuality is so openly expressed these days that such small signals, as the ones the reticule was claimed to send, simply get ignored.
Bibliography
a far cousin of the châtelaine?. (2010) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/513370234/Pendant_Necklace_With_Bird_Cross_Beauty.html > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
a shell-shaped reticule. (n.d.) [Online image]. Available from: < http://kleurrijkjaneausten.blogspot.com/2011/06/reticule-was-small-handbag-that-could.html > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Matthews, C. (2010) Form and Deformity: The Trouble with Victorian Pockets. Victorian Studies, 52 (4) Summer, pp.561-90.
sporting a châtelaine, illustration from 1896. (1896) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&sa=X&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=930&tbm=isch&tbnid=OpUplpyIf2Dx6M:&imgrefurl=http://dressedintime.blogspot.com/2011/10/equipage-or-chatelaine.html&docid=xQnFy2DqcDARGM&imgurl=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmH_tyn4JkAg3StKvpC3COUdha-VRGn5tQKmBss6Rc_WnqhykDjBbsEnDftpj_MTgQO_o3J8uAYFaox8vk1MpphdjLRkRZZW6g3Luj8FEAcw5sq0vRD55XbfBwXi1tQ2q8rg_h3n6CdL2l/s1600/jingling-chatelaine-milford-mail-9-jan-1896.jpg&w=587&h=665&ei=o9dhT4-kDobV8QPGi5m4CA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1028&vpy=110&dur=46&hovh=239&hovw=211&tx=125&ty=115&sig=112135005222127571011&page=2&tbnh=151&tbnw=131&start=38&ndsp=43&ved=1t:429,r:28,s:38 > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Warren, G. (1987) Fashion Accessories Since 1500. Avon, Unwin Hyman Limited.
Wilcox, C. (1999) Bags. London, V&A Publications. Quoted in: Matthews, C. (2010) Form and Deformity: The Trouble with Victorian Pockets. Victorian Studies, 52 (4) Summer, pp.561-90.
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Face your pockets!
Here is a fascinating website created by two Russians.
http://faceyourpockets.com/index1.html
The site is offered both in English and Russian. It is something I found doing research for this blog, and I found it extremely intriguing and inventive.
I think the relevancy to the topic of this blog is in the way the site shows how much the content of one's bags and pockets actually tells about the person, without even having to meet them face-to-face.
Take the following picture as an example (Image 89 of 232)
What do you think these items tell about their owner? About his visual taste, his habits and lifestyle?
http://faceyourpockets.com/index1.html
The site is offered both in English and Russian. It is something I found doing research for this blog, and I found it extremely intriguing and inventive.
I think the relevancy to the topic of this blog is in the way the site shows how much the content of one's bags and pockets actually tells about the person, without even having to meet them face-to-face.
Take the following picture as an example (Image 89 of 232)
What do you think these items tell about their owner? About his visual taste, his habits and lifestyle?
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