The netsuke

The kimono is a traditional Japanese garment worn by both men and women. The name kimono was used from the 18th century onwards, although a similar garment had already been worn for thousands of years. (Japan Zone, n.d.) The traditional kimono does not have pockets. So, in the past, the Japanese would carry their personal belongings in other fashions. Today one can see handbags used with the kimono, but at that time women, whose kimonos had wide and long sleeves, could carry lightweight items inside of them. Another custom that started in the 17th century (IvoryAndArt Gallery, 2012) was to tuck items into the obi, a wide, decorative fabric sash, which is wrapped around one’s waist with numerous folds, which lay on one’s front waist. Although, later the big obi bunch moved to the back, as it grew in size. Men’s sleeves and obis were narrower, so they would hang a pouch or a basket from their obis with a cord. The cord was simply pulled up under the obi, and something was needed to prevent it from slipping. In the beginning, small stones or roots were used. (Davis, 1998)

As the time went by, this netsuke, evolved into a highly decoratively hand-carved object, which played an important role in male clothing. Small items, called the sagemono (hanging items), would be hung using the netsuke. (International Netsuke Society, n.d.) These items could be, for example, a brush and ink, small cases, a knife, a ruler and cosmetics/medicine. The samurai (warriors) would also carry a sword. (Davis 1998; Stutler 2010)


how to use netsuke























In the early 17th century, the Japanese tried to lift their country’s economy with tobacco products, so one would see pipes and tinderboxes hanging from the netsuke. As the Western culture arrived in Japan, rolled cigarettes replaced pipes. (Davis, 1998)

With the Western culture also came pockets. This made the netsuke no longer needed, but it kept its worth as a decorative piece and a collectible. The craftsmanship of the netsuke is still alive and strong. Although, nowadays it is sometimes called the okimono (standing in place) as it is only used for display purposes. However, they are made as they were used as the original netsuke, so the usability is still important. (Davis, 1998)


Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de Waal










My comments:

I find the netsuke quite similar to the châtelaine (see post: The châtelaine and the reticule), as they both hold items that are hung from the waist. They were both used in the same era, but the two different cultures were sigificantly far from each other and the interaction between them has not been really active. Nevertheless, I suppose peoples’ ways of seeing the world around them was surprisingly similar.



Bibliography:

Davis, B. (1998) Netsuke [Internet], Jade Dragon Online. Available from: < http://www.jadedragon.com/aug98/netsuke.html > [Accessed 15 March].
how to use netsuke. (2009) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.dianecsmith.com/pages/netsuke.html > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
International Netsuke Society (n.d.) What is a netsuke? [Internet], International Netsuke Society. Available from: < http://www.netsuke.org/Default.aspx?pageId=1125375 > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Japan Zone, (n.d.) Kimono [Internet], Japan Zone. Available from: < http://www.japan-zone.com/culture/kimono.shtml > [Accessed 15 March 2012].
Netsuke from Edmund de Waal's collection. Photograph: Edmund de Waal. (2010) [Online image]. Available from: < http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2010/may/29/edmund-waal-hare-amber-netsuke > [Accessed 18 March 2012].
Stutler, R., (2010) What is a Yatate? [Internet]. Tokyo Fountain Pen Scene. Available from: < http://www.stutler.cc/pens/yatate/index.html > [Accessed 18 March].